I am a Glutton for Punishment

My Neue Mode Coat 22424 is completed.   I have decided since I have made three jackets and over a dozen muslins, maybe more, since December, I am a glutton for punishment.  Or maybe just biting off more than I can chew.  I hate clichés,  but these fit.

The hours put into this jacket mania have taught me quite a lot about fitting in general.  Plus how much knowledge and experience is needed to make a jacket.
So, I can look at the positives about this experience.   Even though the results have not been too pleasing

I think another jacket project would probably have the result I am looking for.  All my jackets have pluses and minuses. Maybe I can put all the pluses together.

Version 1

Version 2

The version I just finished is actually a coat.  The only padding is the shoulder pads.  Also, it has a full lining instead of being non-lined like the other two.   It is a different pattern from the first two, but since it is part of my jacket era, I am calling it version three.

Before lining

Some tweaking of the lapels, collar,  and a little stiffer interfacing would make it better, but I am finished with this pattern.

Here is Vogue 8719 I made almost two years ago, August 2014.  Now I realize that was a good pattern.  I had no experience with jackets at all, and this turned out good for a first attempt.  I might try this pattern again.

Vogue 8719

I found three great jacket sewing tips I used in one video. Collars, sleeves, and welt pockets.  Watch it Here.

I am thinking of another jacket project.  Butterick 6022 promises to be "very easy" on the envelope.  This time it will be the simplest pattern, so I should have success.

Thanks for stopping.

Muslin Mania Has Ended

I decided to trash all my coat muslins from my muslin mania blog and start a completely new muslin from Neue Mode 22424.

I used size 36 for this lightweight, but fully lined coat.  The muslin actually fit nicely after I extended the body one inch and the arms three inches.

I interfaced all the pieces with a lightweight fusible interface since the 100% cotton material is so soft and flexible.  It also wanted to ravel badly, but the interfacing stopped that.

The pattern calls for either zippered pockets or patch pockets.  I decided to make single-welt pockets on an angle for a sleek look.

Unfinished front with pocket

Front inside showing interfacing and pocket bag

I have been sewing this with my Singer Touchtronic 2001 using a walking foot.  This has touchpad controls and was made in 1980. Another favorite machine!

The last week has been quite busy.  Besides sewing, Joe and I became parents to an eight week old Westie girl we named Dixie,   She gets along great with our 12 year old poodle, Max.

More sewing and other things to do.

Thanks for stopping.

Kenmore Bargain.

I have some older computerized Kenmores and some really old Kenmores.  But until now, I haven't had a 1970s Kenmore.  These are so coveted by sewists they are rarely found for sale at a good price.

I found my all steel 148.15600 in its case on the floor at my local thrift store.  It had a price of $13.50.  Then I realized it was $3.50 after a discount.  This was definetely a bargain buy.

 I like it has a built-in buttonhole setting and decorative patterns.  One interesting thing on this machine is the front mounted on/off switch.  It controls the power and the light.

I thought this era of Kenmore had high shank and/or left needle position, but this one is low shank and center.

$3.50 Kenmore

This is definitely a keeper.

I have to stop going to the thrift store!  .....Maybe not!

Thanks for stopping.

Coat Muslin Mania

 I have been watching a Craftsy Class taught by Kenneth D. King teaching how to take Vogue 8841 and heavily redraft it to make  the "Fly Front Coat".  He teaches how to do a Hong Kong finish, draft and hand sew the lining, and many other details I want to learn.  This coat doesn't have the extent of interfacing a jacket does, so I can focus on other details.

Craftsy Coat

I searched the internet to find a pattern for what I had in mind. No patterns, but I did find a photo of what I want to make.

This is similar to my vision.

I started with the Vogue 8841 supplied with the class.  Mr. King says this is a unisex coat.   Believe me, it is not.

The class teaches how to tweak the pattern to make the style of coat he wanted.  Nothing is said about sizing or fitting.  I attempted to learn how to adjust this pattern to fit on my own.

Muslin one with shoulders "let out"

I narrowed the first muslin two inches by taking in the side seams at the hips and tapering out at the underarm.  I added 1-1/2" to each shoulder.  I opened up the arms 1" in circumference.

Second muslin

For my third muslin I reshaped the armscyces to the largest size on the pattern.

Third muslin

This made the arms fit better, but it still looks awful.

I decided to self-draft a pattern after my disappointment with my adjustments to Vogue 8841.  I took my t-shirt pattern and added ease to make my new jacket muslin.

 It needs some adjustments, but after that I am back to Mr. King's class to add a princess seam,  collar, pockets, and a lining.

The books I am using to help me with all this are Easy guide to sewing jackets and Men's wear tailoring techniques .  These are free to download.

It is a good thing the thrift store had a $3 bolt of fabric suitable for muslins.

Thanks for stopping.

Burda 128 Jacket Debut

Burda 128 has been hanging in my sewing room for a whole month just waiting for its debut.  I finally decided to show it so I can call it finished and get on to a different project  I am not completely satisfied with it, but feel I am getting closer to something I would wear in public.

It was sewed with my Kenmore "95".  I really enjoyed sewing with this straight-stitch machine.  The buttonhole attachment did not have the correct size buttonhole, so I sewed them with my Brother SE270D .

Kenmore 117.959

Brother SE270D

I started with this Burda pattern because it was unlined and I thought it would be great for my trip to Mexico a few months ago.  It didn't make the trip.  This is my second try at this pattern.  I think with different interfacings, the third one would definitely be very good.  But I am burned out on this, and decided to try a different pattern for my next project.

Now that I know more about interfacings, shoulder pads, sleeve heads, mitered sleeves, and so many other things that it takes to make a jacket, I am glad I worked on this project.

My next jacket is going to be quite different from this style.


It should be interesting!

Thanks for stopping.

Burda 128 Jacket, Part Two

The Burda 128 jacket is coming along.  It is hard to believe it has been almost a month since my last blog.  Time flys when you are having fun!

I only have to finish the sleeve linings, sew the buttonholes, and other finishing touches.

The flaps and bags of the pockets are red.  I decided to make the front facings red to match.  Only problem was I did not like the red color for the lapels.  I decided to rip out the facings and make a two-tone facing.   The red would not show on the lapels this way.

Facing

This jacket has some firsts for me.  I made mitered corners on the cuff vents and also sewed faux buttonholes.  I also inserted shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Cuffs

Joe and I stayed a few days with my parents this week.  We live 25 minutes away, but we stay over often.  Anyway, I took the jacket to do some hand sewing and used my Mom's iron.

Now I am shopping for a new iron for myself.  I thought my inexpensive iron was doing a good job.  What a joke!

Gravity feed steam iron.  Yea or nay?

Hopefully the jacket will be ready for a photo shoot soon.

Work in progress

Thanks for stopping.

Burda 128 Redo, Part One

My first try at Burda Jacket 128 would have been better if I had more education in sewing.  I think it was a good start, but after learning some new skills the redo will be much better.

The videos I mentioned in my previous blog definitely have me feeling more confident.  The original jacket pattern has two side vents and patch pockets.  After watching and learning, I sewed welt pockets and a single vent.

I am using a cotton flannel material from Joann I was going to make a shirt-jacket with.  It is working great for this jacket.  It is easier to iron and is holding shape much better than the polyester material I used for the prior jacket.

My first welt pocket with a flap looks pretty good.

I feel better about this chest pocket compared to the first jacket.  I watched this video for instruction instead of using the Burda instructions.
Last time I fought with it forever.  But this time it went fast and easy.

 Handmade By Carolyn showed a flat fell side seam with vent for a shirt, but I used the method for the rear seam and vent.

Vent open

Vent closed

The inside with fusible interfacing and pockets installed.

This is what it looks like now.

I am sewing this with my Kenmore 117.959.  It is doing a wonderful job.

I am hopeful this jacket will be better than the first.  Especially since I am  following Male Devon Sewing Blazer of 2016 Challenge.

Thanks for stopping.