Monday, May 30, 2016

Muslin Mania Has Ended

I decided to trash all my coat muslins from my muslin mania blog and start a completely new muslin from Neue Mode 22424.

I used size 36 for this lightweight, but fully lined coat.  The muslin actually fit nicely after I extended the body one inch and the arms three inches.

I interfaced all the pieces with a lightweight fusible interface since the 100% cotton material is so soft and flexible.  It also wanted to ravel badly, but the interfacing stopped that.

The pattern calls for either zippered pockets or patch pockets.  I decided to make single-welt pockets on an angle for a sleek look.
Unfinished front with pocket

Front inside showing interfacing and pocket bag

I have been sewing this with my Singer Touchtronic 2001 using a walking foot.  This has touchpad controls and was made in 1980. Another favorite machine!

The last week has been quite busy.  Besides sewing, Joe and I became parents to an eight week old Westie girl we named Dixie,   She gets along great with our 12 year old poodle, Max.

More sewing and other things to do.

Thanks for stopping.

Thursday, May 12, 2016

Kenmore Bargain.

I have some older computerized Kenmores and some really old Kenmores.  But until now, I haven't had a 1970s Kenmore.  These are so coveted by sewists they are rarely found for sale at a good price.

I found my all steel 148.15600 in its case on the floor at my local thrift store.  It had a price of $13.50.  Then I realized it was $3.50 after a discount.  This was definetely a bargain buy.

 I like it has a built-in buttonhole setting and decorative patterns.  One interesting thing on this machine is the front mounted on/off switch.  It controls the power and the light.

I thought this era of Kenmore had high shank and/or left needle position, but this one is low shank and center.
$3.50 Kenmore

This is definitely a keeper.

I have to stop going to the thrift store!  .....Maybe not!

Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Coat Muslin Mania

 I have been watching a Craftsy Class taught by Kenneth D. King teaching how to take Vogue 8841 and heavily redraft it to make  the "Fly Front Coat".  He teaches how to do a Hong Kong finish, draft and hand sew the lining, and many other details I want to learn.  This coat doesn't have the extent of interfacing a jacket does, so I can focus on other details.

Craftsy Coat

I searched the internet to find a pattern for what I had in mind. No patterns, but I did find a photo of what I want to make.
This is similar to my vision.

I started with the Vogue 8841 supplied with the class.  Mr. King says this is a unisex coat.   Believe me, it is not.

The class teaches how to tweak the pattern to make the style of coat he wanted.  Nothing is said about sizing or fitting.  I attempted to learn how to adjust this pattern to fit on my own.

Muslin one with shoulders "let out"

I narrowed the first muslin two inches by taking in the side seams at the hips and tapering out at the underarm.  I added 1-1/2" to each shoulder.  I opened up the arms 1" in circumference.
Second muslin

For my third muslin I reshaped the armscyces to the largest size on the pattern.

Third muslin

This made the arms fit better, but it still looks awful.

I decided to self-draft a pattern after my disappointment with my adjustments to Vogue 8841.  I took my t-shirt pattern and added ease to make my new jacket muslin.

 It needs some adjustments, but after that I am back to Mr. King's class to add a princess seam,  collar, pockets, and a lining.

The books I am using to help me with all this are Easy guide to sewing jackets and Men's wear tailoring techniques .  These are free to download.

It is a good thing the thrift store had a $3 bolt of fabric suitable for muslins.

Thanks for stopping.