Wednesday, April 29, 2020

McCall's 7818

After making several shirts, it was time to change gears and try a jacket again.  I decided on McCall's 7818 because of it being lined and supposed to be oversized.  Since my height and long arms need longer than standard, I thought this might be a good pattern to try, even though it is a unisex pattern.

The medium muslin surprised me.  The arms and the body seemed to be the right length.  The shoulders seemed pretty good.  However, there was a lot of extra material around the stomach and in the back.  I tried to take in the seams a little, but then decided to try a muslin in small.

The small was way too small.  So I decided to make a medium jacket with some adjustments.

I sewed them with my Bernina 1005.

I had some wonderful wool fabric in my stash.  It was perfect for a casual jacket.

The first step after interfacing the fronts, sides, and back with lightweight fusible was to install the welt pockets.  I didn't like the instructions.  I followed Pam Howard in her Modern Jacket Techniques video on Bluprint.

Everything was fine until I tried on my new jacket.  The shoulders had wrinkles.

First I pulled the threads and twisted the shoulder to the rear.  That helped a little, but I still had wrinkles under the arms.  After adjusting the arms several times, I decided to leave them alone.

Now on to the lining.  I used a white lining because Wal-Mart had it for $1 a yard.   I machine sewed the arms into the body even though the instructions said to hand sew.  Otherwise I did quite a bit of hand sewing.

I sewed the jacket with my Bernina 640.

I am modeling the jacket in a made by me outfit.  I am wearing a short-sleeved shirt, so no cuff to show.

It fits nicely.  I actually made it just as the pattern called for with no adjustments.  The instructions were good until the final sewing of the lining to the jacket, which were vague.

I am glad to say it is finished after a month of sewing.  It was a fun project, I don't know when I'll get a chance to wear it.

Thanks for stopping.