Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Three Steps Forward

I actually sold two sewing machines on eBay and gave one to the local thrift store.
I thought I was gaining some room, and working on my SMAD(Sewing Machine Addiction Disorder).
The three steps forward were quickly cut by two steps.  A friend of my mother gave me two machines.  The woman delivered them to the door instead of letting me pick them up.  I assumed they would be portables.
I now have a Singer 15-91 and a White Rotary in cabinets to make room for.  I received them in clean and shiny condition
They both sew great.  Dating them; the Singer is 1955 and the White is 1927.  Mother's and Grandmother's machines?

The Simplicity 3708 jacket is coming together.  I will have more on it next time.

Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Interfacing and Bindings, Oh My!

The Simplicity 3708 is coming along.  I decided to use some gray wool/polyester blend I had in my stash.  This is a medium weight material that is easy to work with.

I found a picture of what I am hoping my jacket will resemble.

While searching for this picture, I learned the button etiquette for three buttons. Starting from the top: Sometimes, Always, Never.

Here is the pattern picture.  A little baggy, and not a good lapel roll.  Hopefully mine looks better.

I had a hard time deciding on interfacing, but I finally used some fusible ultra-weft on the fronts of the jacket.  A trick I learned for making a good lapel roll is to have two pieces of interfacing.  One for the body and one for the lapel, so there is a slit between the two.  This makes a "hinge". Also a slit in the interfacing so the dart will be flat.
Fusible interfacing and bias binding 

 Then I used a sew-in interfacing on the facings to get some experience with it.  I also have a seam at the roll line here.

Sew in interfacing and bias binding center back

The pockets didn't call for lining, but I lined them with a light gray polyester lining.  I didn't interface the pockets because I felt they were firm enough.
Fronts with princess seams and pockets

Back and facings

I was going to flat-fell the center back seam. But the fabric was a little thick making it bulky.  So I used some turquoise bias binding on one edge and folded over the other.  I used gray bias binding on the other seams to give a finished look to the inside.

This jacket has two rear vents.  I watched a couple of videos to see how to make them look best.  In my next update, I should have vents and some assembly finished.

This is still a learning process for me.  However.  a jacket should be coming to life soon.

I also machine embroidered a new kitchen towel this week.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Sewing another Jacket

I was going to make the Butterick 6022 again with some changes.  Like princess seams and sleeve vents.   After drafting some changes and getting ready to make a muslin, I found Simplicity 3708 online.

This is the jacket pattern I have been looking for.  It is unlined, has princess seams, and sleeve vents.  It is more like a coat than a jacket.

I bypassed it once, thinking it was a hooded jacket.  But on second look, I saw both models were wearing hooded sweatshirts underneath.  Quite strange when one would think the detail of the collar and lapel should be shown.

I like that it says "Easy to Sew".

After measuring the shoulders, I decided size medium would work for me. However, I made a muslin and it was baggy around the arm holes and other areas.  Just like the model!

All pattern markings on muslin helps fitting.

I tried adjusting it, but trashed it and made a size small muslin with medium shoulder width. 

A major fitting point with jackets is the shoulder and armhole area.  The seam of the armscye should mimic the attachment of your arm to your body.  The bottom of the sleeve should sit as tight to your armpit as possible, without restricting movement.  If great attention is not given to this area, large wrinkles will appear. 

As seen in the first muslin, the armhole was too big for me.  I added an inch of fabric under the arm for a better fit.  I also adjusted it as shown.

   I  lengthened the body one inch and the arms two inches.

Here is the muslin with my adjustments.  It is a three button jacket which I have pinned shut and shoved in shoulder pads.  

I think I made a good decision trying this pattern and not redesigning the other.  I'll call it a learning experience either way.

Now to decide what fabric to use.

Thanks for stopping.