Saturday, August 29, 2015

Skinny Pants Redo, Part One

My skinny khaki pants I reviewed in my last blog are wearable, but not quite to my liking.  I decided to try to tweak the pattern a little to make a more comfortable pair of pants.  Since I haven't really tweaked pants before, except for lengthening, this has been a learning experience.

Simplicity 1286 will have a longer rise, looser hips and backside, and a real double-welt rear pocket.  I am using Singer, Sewing Pants That Fit to help me with the tweaking.  This book is written for women's pants, but I am using the techniques for my pants.

The book guides you through all the adjustments for tight seat, loose seat, big stomach, small stomach, and all other conceivable fitting problems.

The main thing I took from this book is after making adjustments to the pattern, you baste together a pair of pants using a 1" seam allowance.  Then without the waistband, model the pants and start adjusting where needed.  Once you get the pants to your liking mark all adjustments on the pattern so you can remake the pants again.

Since I knew the waist was right on this pattern, I made a size 38 pants with a size 36 waist.  This made the legs a little wider and more room in the hips.

After some adjustments here is what I ended with.

Front looks good.

A little more final adjustments needed on rear.

Then I tore them apart to make the pattern for use next time.  Once torn apart I made the rear double welt pocket with help from Duane at The Japanese Pattern Challenge and a youtube video.

With sewing marks.

Ready to go.

Now I am going to assemble the front pockets and the fly.

Thanks for stopping.