Friday, July 21, 2017

Sage Shacket


When I was at Walmart I found cotton twill material for $1 a yard that I thought would make perfect muslins.  However, I quickly decided this sage green material would make a nice shacket.

Last time I made KwikSew 3251 I thought it fit perfect, except for the shoulders were too large.  In my last blog, I adjusted the pattern for this project.  

The sleeves seemed wrinkly to me, so I adjusted and readjusted, but decided I was over thinking it, and went ahead with the shacket.

I found two good articles on adjusting sleeves.  One is a Craftsy and the other is a Threads article.

I used my Singer 15-91 for all the sewing.  This machine is truly a gem.  The gear drive motor is smooth and strong.  It was given to me by my mom's friend.


I decided a matching top stitching thread would be perfect for this color.  I also decided to serge the seams.






I have enough sage twill for a few more projects.  Maybe a shirt, pants, or ....

Thanks for stopping.








Wednesday, June 14, 2017

KwikSew 3251 Redo

 I made KwikSew 3251 in size 36 and the shoulders are too big.  I noticed the ones made on patternreview.com have the same problem.  I am making another jacket with some adjustments.

My jacket

For this project, I am going to take one inch off the shoulders and armscyes by adjusting the pattern.  I am going to keep the two inches added to the length, but I am only going to add one inch to the arm length.

I followed the instructions in my Singer The Perfect Fit book to adjust the shoulders to a smaller size.


After this adjustment, I still had a gaping armhole.  So I took 3/4" off the shoulders seam as per my Singer book.



This made it fit much Better.  However, the sleeves were really wrinkly, so I adjusted the bottom of the armscyes to make them smaller.

I think I am done tweaking and ready to start cutting denim.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Back to the Eighties

I haven't seen denim jackets around for a while, possibly since the Eighties.  It is interesting how things come and go in style.

I found Kwik Sew 3251 on sewingpatterns.com .  The interesting thing with this pattern is it looks just like a Levi's jacket Joe has.  This made my jacket easier to assemble because I had a model.   I am sewing a small size of this pattern with two inches added to the length and the arms.


I was inspired to do this jacket after watching Janet Pray make a women's denim jacket in this Craftsy class.  She shows step-by-step how to make her jacket pattern.  She shows lots of tips and does teach how to sew faster and better.  I did flat fell some seams, even though she serges all.

I used my DressMaster machine to sew this and do the topstitching.  The American made White machines with friction drive do incredible straight stitches.  Plus they will sew through anything, even several layers of denim.

I used 5/8" metal embossed nickel buttons for use on jeans purchased from Wawak.com.  I installed them by squeezing together the two pieces with pliers, instead of hammering together.  I attached my "White" buttonholer to my DressMaster.






I was warned by a reader about the sizing.  Yes, it is big in the shoulders, so  I might make it again after adjusting the shoulders.   Since the denim was $1.50 per yard on closeout at Walmart, I made this jacket inexpensively.

I enjoyed the topstitching so much I am planning on making another jacket with the same pattern, but with beige denim, adjusted shoulders, and only 1" added to the sleeves. 

I also plan on using my new Necchi Supernova Ultra BF that followed me home for $4.50.


Thanks for stopping.


Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Ready for Winter

After making my lined shacket I decided a new coat would be nice to have.  I made a coat a few years ago and wear it often.  However, I feel it is time for another.  This time with  a gray wool blend and a navy lining.


 I purchased Kwik Sew 3123 on Sewingpatterns.com . I downloaded and printed out the pattern, then put it together like a puzzle.  I checked out this pattern on PatternReview.com and found most people said the sizing ran large.  I chose medium anyway.

The first muslin turned out huge, with lots of shoulder and arm room.  So I decided to cut the pattern's armscyes to small, but keep everything else medium.  This made a better fit.  But still too big, so I decided to make the pattern in small, with one inch added to the arm length.

The instructions are thorough and clear.  The only thing I did different from the instructions was to make the collar from the outer material instead of the lining.

My Singer Diana in a desk did a great job sewing this project.  This 1975 electronic machine is smooth and quiet.
I tried different machines for the topstitching, but used Diana anyway.   She did great with the thick thread and a 14 needle.

The buttons are an inch wide so I made 1 1/8" buttonholes​ with my Singer CE100.  Diana has a two-step manual buttonhole and I wasn't sure I would get them all the same.



Welt pocket

This is a comfortable coat.  It is definitely oversized and boxy.  I like it and have worn it several times.

I found a Kwik Sew pattern for a denim jacket which I think will be a great project.

Thanks for stopping.





Friday, April 14, 2017

Lined Shacket

I wear the Thai-Shacket I made using Simplicity 1328 quite often.  I like the idea of dressing in layers, so a shirt-jacket(shacket) works well for me.  Since I knew this Simplicity pattern fit me using the small size with two inches added to the sleeves, I decided to use it for this shacket.  The difference is I put a lining in this one and welt pockets.

Shacket Pattern

My Thai Shacket,  February 2015

I used some gray cotton herringbone material I bought from Joann's and a gray polyester lining I had in my stash.

I watched the same video I used for instructions on welt pockets for a previous project to refresh my memory.

I wasn't sure how to do the lining, so I simply made the shacket, less the collar, and sewed it in with a 1/4" seam.  Once I sewed in the lining, I added the collar, button placket, and cuffs to finish it.







White Sewmaster 611 used for this shacket




I have worn this several times and enjoy it during these cool spring days.

My next project is a jacket using a Kwik Sew pattern.

Thanks for stopping.

Saturday, April 1, 2017

Stripe Mania

 I purchased a striped sheet at Walmart for $5 to make a shirt.  I used the Islander 228  pattern in small with short sleeves.  I had used this pattern for my last shirt using a medium pattern, but the shoulders were too wide.   I recut the pattern in small just in case I did something wrong assembling it.

It is slim fitting!  The shoulders are correct, but the body is small.  I even restitched the 5/8" side seams to 1/4" for a little more room.  I serged the side seams, since there wasn't enough fabric to flat-fell.

I actually like this shirt, so I made another shirt from a different sheet using the same pattern and 1/4" seam allowance.  The only difference is I cut the hem even, so it is not a tuck-in shirt.




Joe wanted a pinstriped shirt, so I bought another sheet and made one with my "go to" shirt pattern, Simplicity 7330 in large.


I think it is odd when people ask if we are brothers.  Even in the same shirts, we don't look anything alike.

I am making a "shacket" now with a gray herringbone cotton.

Thanks for stopping.


Sunday, March 12, 2017

Islander Shirts

I added two inches to the sleeves of a medium Islander 228 pattern.

The medium shirt fits my body the way I like, but the shoulders are too big.  I have seen reviews that complain about the sizes being big on this pattern, but I am not convinced.  If I made a small, it would be too small.

I sewed this shirt after watching the Craftsy video Sew Better, Sew faster: Shirtmaking.  It included the pattern I printed out and put together like a puzzle.

I followed the pattern and the class, except for using the left-front flipped over for the right-front.  The Islander pattern has the left-front fabric folded twice to make the buttonhole placket, but the right only once, thus the two different front patterns pieces.

I made this shirt in a beige linen and 1/2" buttons I had in my stash.  The linen sewed beautifully with my Kenmore 117-959.  This straight-stitch machine runs quiet and does a beautiful stitch.  Plus it is in a desk, which I realized from watching the video makes it easier to sew due to the flat area for the fabric to rest.



I decided to try this pattern again with small armholes on a medium body.

The results were almost satisfactory.  I made this in a blue Oxford cloth.


I sewed this shirt with my Singer 401 in a desk.  When I first bought this about two years ago it didn't blow my hair back.  But after using it this time, I like it!

Striped shirts coming next.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, February 24, 2017

Continuing Education

I purchased the Craftsy class "Sew faster, Sew better :shirt making" with Janet Pray.  This class gives some tips, like how to sew without pins, sewing a tower placket, and others, plus it includes a printable man's shirt pattern. I have used some of these tips to make my Simplicity 1493. My next project will be with the Islander shirt included with this class.

I made a size small Simplicity 1493 with two inches added to the sleeves, thinking it would be sized the same as the Simplicity 2741 I made in my last blog.  However, it is a slimmer fit.  This works nicely with the lightweight cotton I used, I would make a medium if I used a heavier material next time.
Admiring my CE 150

Aqua Cotton

Sewing the pocket with a 1/4" seam allowance was one of the class tips, and it worked great.  I also liked using interfacing in the pocket fold.

Another tip is to take one diagonal stitch when sewing the collar points.  This does make a nice point. Don't ask me why.

I made the tower sleeve plackets from the Islander shirt pattern.  They are made in one piece, and one of the simplest methods  I have seen.  A little more practice and I will be able to make nice ones.

I am still using my Singer CE150, I enjoy it a lot. One of the tips is to use a machine with the needle-down stop position to keep your stitches lined up after stopping.

I enjoyed this class a lot.  I took it for the "Sew Better" part, but thoroughly enjoyed it all.  Some previous shirt making skills are needed for this class.

My next blog will be the Islander #228 shirt which was included with this class.

Thanks for stopping





Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Snow and Sewing

Time just flew by last week even though I was fighting a terrible cold and had also been snowed in for ten days.

Yes, a freak snow storm dropped 6 inches on Friday, then another 6 inches on Sunday.  We were not able to drive to town until the following Monday.  We had plenty of food and the power was only off for 12 hours, so we did not have it bad.  In fact, I finished this shirt.

I sewed many hours on my blue flannel shirt this week with my Singer CE150 while watching the snow.  I used Simplicity 2741 and added two inches to the arm length.
Simplicity 2741
As mentioned in previous blogs,  I made three different plaid shirts before making this blue one.  The first three were wearable muslins.  I used snuggle flannel for them, but real flannel for this one. Snuggle flannel has the plaid printed on instead of being woven in, thus less expensive.
Max

Dixie

Tucked-in

Yoke on bias

Dixie enjoying snow



I cut the yoke on the bias.  Everything else I lined up.

I have worn this shirt several times.  It is soft and comfortable.

I am planning on a solid blue shirt with Simplicity 1493 for my next project. It is similar to this pattern.

Thanks for stopping.