Thursday, February 26, 2015

My New Favorite Shirt Pattern.

My new favorite shirt pattern is Simplicity 1544. It is a long-sleeve pattern with a separate button placket.  I like shirts with this type of placket because it pops out and makes the shirt look dressy.  I made no adjustments for length, which I usually add 2 inches to most patterns.  This shirt is more casual though, not form fitting, but not too loose.  It looks good tucked or untucked.

I made this shirt with a polyester blend material I had in my stash.  The only change from the pattern I made was short-sleeves.  I don't wear long-sleeves too often.  I started with a 10" sleeve, and once I had the shirt wearable, I cut the sleeves to the length I thought looked good.

This is the second Simplicity pattern I have used that that instructs the burrito method for finishing the yoke.  This is such an easy way and gives a professional look.

I used my Wilson Rotary to make this shirt.  I also used my white buttonholer.  This machine being straight-stitch only makes impeccable stitches.  Plus it is smooth and quiet for being some 70 years old.  The buttonholer made beautiful buttonholes.

Speaking of buttons,  I purchase several colors of buttons from Wawak.com.  A gross of buttons for $2.45 is quite a bargain.


I used a piece of burgundy fabric for the collar stand.


First time I used a pattern with this button-tab on back.  Plus, no darts on the back.


 The right length for tucking-in also.


Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Thai Shacket.

I watched a friend's dog when she went to Thailand over two years ago.  When she came back she brought me a gift of fabric which she charged me $20 for.  Not wanting to get her mad, I paid for my gift and put it in my fabric stash. It would he nice to get some similar material for another project.  However, she stopped talking to me right after that because I wouldn't stalk her ex-boyfried for her.  (Yes, she was a little nutty.)

Anyway,  This is a lightweight woven cotton material that the pattern runs only halfway through the yardage.  I thought it would shrink quite a bit when washed, but it did not.   It took me a while to find a pattern I thought would work with this material.   Thus, the shacket.  The yardage being only 34" wide made for some interesting choices on my pattern placement.  I barely had enough material.   I usually dress conservatively, so this shacket will be quite a change.  But a fun change.


I bough Simplicty 1328 at Joann's for $1 during one of their frequent sales.  I wanted to make sure a small would be the right size, and to check the body and sleeve length, so I made a sort-of muslin.   Surprisingly the small was the right size except for the sleeve length.  I added two inches to the sleeves.  This shacket would he quite long on someone shorter than my 6'2".

My sort-of muslin

Ready to cut out

The material started unraveling, so I stitched close to the edge around the pieces to stop it.
I serged the armscyes and sewed the seam allowance down to look like a flat felled seam.
I did flat fell the side seams.  Interesting that this pattern instructed how to use the burrito method to finish the yoke.


Armscye and inside yoke


The button plackets are two-piece.  A little more work.  The inside of the button placket matches the inside yoke and the pocket lining.


I didn't think I had enough material to make the lower pockets, so I cut them out last and lined them.  I think the contrast looks good. 

Pocket lining


Ready to go.

Looks good buttoned also


Yoke matches sleeves

My first tower tower type cuff.  


I have made cuffs before, but simple versions, not the tower type.  These went smoothly since the directions were good.

My only problem with this pattern was the collar stand was too small.  I actually cut out the large stand when I found the small would not work.  Thankfully I had enough material.  The only other thing I would do is line the top pockets, since the flaps are lined.

I am sure to get a lot of use out of my shacket.  I always dress in layers, this will work great when walking Max or when it isn't cool enough for a sweater or jacket.

Thanks for stopping.


Tuesday, February 10, 2015

To self draft, or not to self draft?

I found a company that makes custom suits and shirts for very inexpensive prices.  Even though interesting, I decided to make my own shirt using thieir measuring guide.

You can download the guide at Modern tailor.

When I looked through my closet for my best fitting shirt I found one I made,  which happened to be Simplicity 6613.  This is fitted.  For an everyday shirt I like simplicity 7330.

When looking at their chart I fall between a XS and S on the normal fit chart.  For the slim fit chart it is more like a large.  I would hate to wear one of their slim-fit shirts.  Painted-on is what it should be called!

I decided to make the Simplicity 6613 pattern in small.  I figured why try to draw  a new one when this one does nicely?  So, not to self draft is the answer.  At least for now.

My only adjustments to the pattern are making it two inches longer, making the collar smaller, and adjusting the button placement.  I also did a rolled hem.

Using my White Sewmaster to make impeccable straight stitches, I made a short-sleeve shirt with some striped material from my stash.
Made by me outfit with my Vogue 8719 pants

Buttoned-down collar

Casual
I think this shirt came out fine.  This is the first time for me to have a different color for the collar stand.   I also did not line up the pocket stripes to the shirt stripes.

Now that this project is finished, I am starting something really different for me.  It happens to be a multicolored shacket.  

Thanks for stopping.