Thursday, March 5, 2015

Shirt Mania


I have been a sewing maniac lately.  Shirts flying out of my sewing machine as fast as my fingers can move.  Also, I have been putting some of my machines on Pinterest.

I am not sure if it is because the weather has been cold, I have new machines to test, I have nice fabric to use, new patterns, or maybe a combination of all?

Anyway, I purchased some flannel fabric from Joann's at 60% off, plus a 20% off coupon, plus a buy $10 get $5 off coupon.   I used my buttons from Wawak ($2.95 for a gross).  This shirt was very reasonable to make.

I used my new favorite pattern,  Simplicity 1544. I used the size 36, and I lengthened the sleeves two inches.  I also made a rolled-hem, this gives the shirt a more RTW look.  The only gripe I have with this pattern is the length of the collar stand.  This is my second shirt with this pattern and I have had to make the collar stand longer than the pattern makes.

This is a luxuriously-soft flannel. The kind that feels like you have had it for years.  I haven't made a shirt with such a prominent plaid, so matching the pattern was quite a struggle. Even with help from several books on pattern placement for plaids.   The back and yoke line up.  The front to yoke does not.  But still looks good. I used three yards for a two yard pattern, to line things up.

I used my Brother SE270D to make this shirt.   I used my White SewMaster and butonholer for the buttonholes.

I overedged the seams and sewed them down for a flat-fell look.

Brother 523 HomeLock
Brother SE270D

White SewMaster 611








Max helping me get warm.

Maybe my shirt making mania is over.  I am not sure what my next project is.

Thanks for stopping.





Thursday, February 26, 2015

My New Favorite Shirt Pattern.

My new favorite shirt pattern is Simplicity 1544. It is a long-sleeve pattern with a separate button placket.  I like shirts with this type of placket because it pops out and makes the shirt look dressy.  I made no adjustments for length, which I usually add 2 inches to most patterns.  This shirt is more casual though, not form fitting, but not too loose.  It looks good tucked or untucked.

I made this shirt with a polyester blend material I had in my stash.  The only change from the pattern I made was short-sleeves.  I don't wear long-sleeves too often.  I started with a 10" sleeve, and once I had the shirt wearable, I cut the sleeves to the length I thought looked good.

This is the second Simplicity pattern I have used that that instructs the burrito method for finishing the yoke.  This is such an easy way and gives a professional look.

I used my Wilson Rotary to make this shirt.  I also used my white buttonholer.  This machine being straight-stitch only makes impeccable stitches.  Plus it is smooth and quiet for being some 70 years old.  The buttonholer made beautiful buttonholes.

Speaking of buttons,  I purchase several colors of buttons from Wawak.com.  A gross of buttons for $2.45 is quite a bargain.


I used a piece of burgundy fabric for the collar stand.


First time I used a pattern with this button-tab on back.  Plus, no darts on the back.


 The right length for tucking-in also.


Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Thai Shacket.

I watched a friend's dog when she went to Thailand over two years ago.  When she came back she brought me a gift of fabric which she charged me $20 for.  Not wanting to get her mad, I paid for my gift and put it in my fabric stash. It would he nice to get some similar material for another project.  However, she stopped talking to me right after that because I wouldn't stalk her ex-boyfried for her.  (Yes, she was a little nutty.)

Anyway,  This is a lightweight woven cotton material that the pattern runs only halfway through the yardage.  I thought it would shrink quite a bit when washed, but it did not.   It took me a while to find a pattern I thought would work with this material.   Thus, the shacket.  The yardage being only 34" wide made for some interesting choices on my pattern placement.  I barely had enough material.   I usually dress conservatively, so this shacket will be quite a change.  But a fun change.


I bough Simplicty 1328 at Joann's for $1 during one of their frequent sales.  I wanted to make sure a small would be the right size, and to check the body and sleeve length, so I made a sort-of muslin.   Surprisingly the small was the right size except for the sleeve length.  I added two inches to the sleeves.  This shacket would he quite long on someone shorter than my 6'2".

My sort-of muslin

Ready to cut out

The material started unraveling, so I stitched close to the edge around the pieces to stop it.
I serged the armscyes and sewed the seam allowance down to look like a flat felled seam.
I did flat fell the side seams.  Interesting that this pattern instructed how to use the burrito method to finish the yoke.


Armscye and inside yoke


The button plackets are two-piece.  A little more work.  The inside of the button placket matches the inside yoke and the pocket lining.


I didn't think I had enough material to make the lower pockets, so I cut them out last and lined them.  I think the contrast looks good. 

Pocket lining


Ready to go.

Looks good buttoned also


Yoke matches sleeves

My first tower tower type cuff.  


I have made cuffs before, but simple versions, not the tower type.  These went smoothly since the directions were good.

My only problem with this pattern was the collar stand was too small.  I actually cut out the large stand when I found the small would not work.  Thankfully I had enough material.  The only other thing I would do is line the top pockets, since the flaps are lined.

I am sure to get a lot of use out of my shacket.  I always dress in layers, this will work great when walking Max or when it isn't cool enough for a sweater or jacket.

Thanks for stopping.


Tuesday, February 10, 2015

To self draft, or not to self draft?

I found a company that makes custom suits and shirts for very inexpensive prices.  Even though interesting, I decided to make my own shirt using thieir measuring guide.

You can download the guide at Modern tailor.

When I looked through my closet for my best fitting shirt I found one I made,  which happened to be Simplicity 6613.  This is fitted.  For an everyday shirt I like simplicity 7330.

When looking at their chart I fall between a XS and S on the normal fit chart.  For the slim fit chart it is more like a large.  I would hate to wear one of their slim-fit shirts.  Painted-on is what it should be called!

I decided to make the Simplicity 6613 pattern in small.  I figured why try to draw  a new one when this one does nicely?  So, not to self draft is the answer.  At least for now.

My only adjustments to the pattern are making it two inches longer, making the collar smaller, and adjusting the button placement.  I also did a rolled hem.

Using my White Sewmaster to make impeccable straight stitches, I made a short-sleeve shirt with some striped material from my stash.
Made by me outfit with my Vogue 8719 pants

Buttoned-down collar

Casual
I think this shirt came out fine.  This is the first time for me to have a different color for the collar stand.   I also did not line up the pocket stripes to the shirt stripes.

Now that this project is finished, I am starting something really different for me.  It happens to be a multicolored shacket.  

Thanks for stopping.








Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Simplicity 2081/Back to 1957

I made a lightweight short-sleeve shirt from a 1957 Simplicity 2081.  This shirt went together quickly.  I used my White Sewmaster 611 for this shirt.  The stitching on this machine is fabulous.  Staright-stitch, but fabulous.  The pattern comes in single sizes.  This was a small.


Ready to start

Sewmaster 611
 I followed the sizing and instructions, except for using the "burrito method" for the yoke.  This technique is easy and produces a professional shoulder seam.  A good video is
How to sew a shirt yoke

Rolled up like a burrito

Button-down collar

A button in the back of the collar

Collar close-up

Back

Max likes to help


I am going to make this shirt again, but this time adding two inches to the length.



Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Pajama top

I decided to make a pajama top with some polar-fleece I bought from Joann a month ago at a very good price.  I used Simplicity 2317 in small to make the top. This pattern is interesting because it uses piping for trim.

I serged the seams with my Pfaff 794 after sewing with my Vikng 980.  I stitched the serged edges down to give it a smooth professional look.

This is a good pattern.  I added two inches to the sleeves, and no other adjustments.  Since I have a long torso I realize how long this top would be on most people without subtracting two or so inches from the body.

I like how the top fits and looks.  I decided to make the bottoms.  However, they will be from a polar-fleece print.  That will be in  my next blog.



Kohl's pajamas

My pajama top

Thanks for stopping.


Friday, January 9, 2015

Vogue 8719 pants Second Edition, Conclusion

My Vogue 8719 pants are all finished.  I have warn them several times already.  They are comfortable and I like the new front pockets so much better.  I did a little decorative stitching with my Singer 6268.  I thought it would give the pants a little extra something.

In Conclusion, I like Vogue 8719.  I like it even better with the front pockets I added.

Here is my photo shoot in a Made-By-Me outfit.  My Vogue 8719 pants, jacket, and a Simplicity 7330 shirt made by me two years ago.  (How time flys!)





I am already starting my next project.  This will be some pajamas made with Simplicity 2317. I am using a baby-blue fleece and dark-blue piping.


Thanks for stopping.