Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Burda 128 Redo, Part One

My first try at Burda Jacket 128 would have been better if I had more education in sewing.  I think it was a good start, but after learning some new skills the redo will be much better.

The videos I mentioned in my previous blog definitely have me feeling more confident.  The original jacket pattern has two side vents and patch pockets.  After watching and learning, I sewed welt pockets and a single vent.

I am using a cotton flannel material from Joann I was going to make a shirt-jacket with.  It is working great for this jacket.  It is easier to iron and is holding shape much better than the polyester material I used for the prior jacket.

My first welt pocket with a flap looks pretty good.



I feel better about this chest pocket compared to the first jacket.  I watched this video for instruction instead of using the Burda instructions.
Last time I fought with it forever.  But this time it went fast and easy.


 Handmade By Carolyn showed a flat fell side seam with vent for a shirt, but I used the method for the rear seam and vent.
Vent open

Vent closed

The inside with fusible interfacing and pockets installed.


This is what it looks like now.


I am sewing this with my Kenmore 117.959.  It is doing a wonderful job.


I am hopeful this jacket will be better than the first.  Especially since I am  following Male Devon Sewing Blazer of 2016 Challenge.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, January 29, 2016

Educating Myself

In my last blog I unveiled my first try with the Burda 128 jacket. I intended to wear this jacket during my cruise to Mexico.  Well,  I decided it wasn't quite worthy of this.  Instead I wore a suit I had purchased many years ago.

Formal night aboard Grand Princess
Shopping for fabric in Mexico with made by me bag and shirt

After returning from the cruise and looking at my previous blog, I am sure I made the right decision.  This jacket is not quite ready for public wearing.

Educating myself in order to produce a better jacket has included watching videos and reading my sewing books.

The first video "Create a jacket muslin" is helping me learn how to correct some fitting issues.   The second class "Modern jacket techniques" is teaching me many things.  One thing is a step-by-step tutorial on making a welt pocket.  I purchased both these courses on sale.

A free series I have been watching Expert sewing techniques has been very educational.  I am going to try setting in the sleeve like Sarah Veblen does.

I have already decided to change a few things when I start making Burda 128 again.  Such as a single, instead of a double vent in back.  Also I have decided to try welt pockets with flaps, instead of patch pockets.

Back to video watching.

Thanks for stopping.



Friday, January 8, 2016

Burda 128 Jacket Thoughts

I finished the Burda 128 Jacket.  I like the pattern and the fit.  The video instructions helped me out quite a bit.

This pattern was printed out on my printer and assembled. There weren't any adjustment lines, so I used my "Singer, The Perfect Fit" book to show me where to adjust the pattern for the two inches in sleeve and body length I needed.

This  jacket is unlined except for the sleeves.  I used a lightweight suiting fabric I bought at JoAnn with a 60% off coupon, so the cost of the fabric was $15.  I used my Viking 960 to sew the jacket and my Singer 7470 to sew the keyhole buttonholes.

There are some wrinkles on the arms and around the shoulders I don't like.  Otherwise it is wearable.







I am going to make this jacket again.  I  will make a muslin using the instructions from a video on making a jacket muslin to make some adjustments.  The video is for a women's jacket, but I can use the techniques.  I purchased this video on sale for $15.

My thoughts on this jacket are positive.  After a little more video watching I believe I can make a nice jacket.  I like learning new skills and working with different fabrics.


Thanks for stopping.



Monday, December 21, 2015

Burda 128 Jacket Update

I have been working on my Burda 128 Jacket hoping to have it ready for my cruise next month.  I have a glimmer of hope I will make it.

I like this pattern so far.  The number of pieces, the way it is assembled, and the way it is fitting.  By the way, I usually wear a 36 and this is a 38, so I think the sizing runs snug.  Or maybe I am just out of fashion.  I noticed when shopping for jackets with Joe last month most are slim or skinny fit.

The instructions need a lot of help.  There are not any drawings.  An advanced sewist could probably handle this.  The video is good, but the assembly instructions differ totally from the video. Therefore, follow one or the other.

The video actually has the vents being assembled backwards to convention.  I noticed, but did them the way showed.  I added binding to the vents since the video serged them.

The welt pocket video instructions weren't the greatest, but I did get it done.  I forgot I had some good instructions in my stack of sewing books.  I did remember I had good instructions for the lined-pockets.

The video also did not interface the chest piece and lapel because the sewest wanted a less formal look.   I added fusible interfacing.

Here I have the left side finished.  The right side just needs finishing sewed up.  Also the pockets need sewed on.

Left side finished

Inside left view. Notice how the facing goes to the side seam
and is neatly finished.

Close-up of welt pocket


Vent detail.  This jacket has dual vents.

Interior and exterior of lined pockets

Sewing being handled by my Viking 960


I need to finish the arms and arm linings and some other sewing to finish.

Thanks for stopping.



Friday, December 4, 2015

Travel Attire

Joe and I haven't traveled in over ten years until we went to Alaska in October.  Now we are going on a Princess Cruise to Mexico in January.  Wow!  Talk about change!

During the Cruise to Mexico we want to dress for the two formal nights.  I enjoy dressing up, so I first thought a tuxedo.  But that might be over the top.  So I am going to take a gray suit.  Joe also has a gray suit.

Even though I have something to wear,   I have the urge to make an unlined jacket to wear during the cruise.  I might not finish it in time, but that is fine.

I made Vogue 8719 last year.  For me, the instructions were vague and the fit was a little tight.

Vogue 8719

I am making  Burda 128.  I chose this because even though the insructions don't have any pictures, there is a video available.

Burda 128 from website

Burda 128 from website


This pattern was printed out on my printer, then assembled.

Pattern assembly line.


Pattern Assembled

This pattern does not have seam-allowances included.   I added 1" so room for adjustment would be available.   Once cut-out,  I made a muslin to check the size.   Except for needing to add two inches to the body length and the sleeves, it fits fine.

Muslin
I  am going to adjust the pattern length and start making the jacket with some polyester suiting I purchased from JoAnn's.

 Gray fabric

I'll update you as I proceed.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, November 11, 2015

Vacation First, Sewing Second.

First, I must write about where I have been.  Joe and I flew to Juneau Alaska to visit his mom.  We haven't been on an actual vacation since we flew to Arkansas for a camping trip in 2004.  We have been on short trips a few hours away, like Reno and San Francisco, but nothing as long as this trip.  Also, we stayed with our friends in Sequim Washington for a few days before taking the train back home to California.  This was our version of The Amazing Race!
Joe, Judy, Me, and Mendenhall Glacier

with Karen and Larry


We were gone ten days and have been home a while, but still recouping from all the fun.  Now back to my sewing.

I wear polo shirts most of the time.  However, until now I have not found a pattern and material to make one.

Simplicity 1286 is what I made my skinny khaki pants with, and this pattern also has a polo shirt. I also found some stretch-knit material at the thrift store which is perfect for this project.

After measuring the pattern I decided to use size small and not to lengthen the body or the arms.  Since Joann's had Simplicity patterns for $1, I cut out size small and started cutting the material.


 


A reviewer on pattern review.com mentioned the left placket was too small.  After looking at the drawing which called for cutting out two left plackets,  but only showing the one being used, I figured the step of sewing the two together was forgotten.  Thus I sewed the two together and folded to make a nice looking placket.

Inside view of left-placket before folding to finish

Inside view of finished placket

Collar





I used my Singer Quantum CXL to sew the seams with a straight stretch-stitch.  Then I used my Singer 7470 with dual-thread and a twin needle to sew the hems.  This gives a little stretch to the fabric and a dual stitch for a store-bought look.  I sewed standard hems, not the two-inch hem in the directions.

I like this shirt and I am sure I will make it again.

Thanks for stopping.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Embroidery Time!

I enjoy using my embroidery machines.  It is fun to see designs come to life on fabric.  This time  I am making two tote bags and also embroidering some towels to donate to the Amador County Artists Association for their annual art auction fundraiser.

The main theme of my donation is wine because the Artists are holding a Wine Fest in which people wander through town tasting wine, then once they are feeling happy they get to bid on donated items to raise money for the arts.

I purchased some hand towels from the local box store. After washing them I embroidered wine themed art on them using my Brother SE270D.  This was a mixing of free designs from the internet and text I added.

My next design was a floral motif on a towel to try to appeal to all bidders at the auction.  This embroidery was done with my Elna 8300 (same as Janome 350) because it has a large hoop to handle bigger designs.



I added my tag to the towels.



I also made a large tote bag and a small one using some blue duck canvas fabric from JoAnn's. I followed instructions from Emblibrary and used some designs from the internet.

Side one

Side two

I followed the tote bag directions exactly for the larger bag because I made it first.  It used serged seams.  Fot the smaller bag  I flat fell the seams to give it a cleaner look.

Interior seam large bag

Interior seam small bag


It has been busy here,  hopefully my donation makes some money and my bags get good use.

Thanks for stopping.