Friday, October 13, 2017

Keeping busy with KwikSew 3504

I decided to make a pair of jeans using KwikSew 3504 .  But first, I made a pair of shorts using the sage-green twill I had in my stash for a wearable muslin.   I made size medium and the shorts were loose, but after washing and wearing several times, they fit fine.  So, medium with 4" added to the straight leg is what I made.

I gave my Singer 338 to the Hospice thrift store after making the shorts with it.  I rarely used this machine, so I hope someone will.

I used my Bernina 1011 to make the jeans, including the topstitching.

I used the embroidery attachment with my Singer 6268 and cartridge 8 to make the little design on the pockets.  

I used my Brother 523 to overlock the edges of the leg seams.

The instructions for this pattern are thorough and very good.  The installation of the zipper is different then I have done before, and is quite good.  The only thing I did different is put interfacing in the waist band because I used lightweight denim.

Here is a front view showing the rivets.

Here is the back view showing the embroidery.

Here is an inside view showing the pockets and zipper.

And now, the photo shoot.  The hems are basted until I wash them a few times to see how much shrinkage will happen.

Now after being washed twice here is the result.  The hems still basted until one more wash.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Old Friends

I have written many times about my "go-to" shirt pattern being Simplicity 7330.  This pattern has a choice of a notched collar or a collar with stand.  It is like an old friend that I am comfortable with and like having around.

I have written in length about my sewing machines also.   I like all machines, but I have found among the smoothest I have are the ones called Bernina.  I have tried the new Berninas at the store, but my newest is a 1011 which is 30 years old.

So for my latest projects, I had some comfortable old friends help me.  My Simplicity 7330 and my Bernina 1011.

I made the medium size with a blue cotton from JoAnn's.  I like a firm collar, so I interfaced both collar pieces.

Then I decided to have another old friend, my Singer 6268, help me to make a shirt with a sheet.  One thing I did different this time is use the straight stitch needle plate with the straight stitch foot.   This made a real difference in keeping the topstitching straight.

Simplicity 7330 was used, but I inserted darts in the back like Islander #228.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, August 18, 2017

Birthday Shirts

To celebrate some birthdays, my niece and nephew took us to Morton's steakhouse.

Both a happy and a sad occasion.   The last time we went to Morton's was in 2012.  This time the attendees were  the same, minus my father who passed away in January.
Dressed up for dinner in 2012
Dinner 2017.  Me, mom, Melissa, Chase, Joe, and Joe

For the occasion, I decided to make a dress shirt to wear.  Since we have been having 100 degree days, a short sleeve was needed.
I used the Islander 228 shirt pattern I used before,  with the shoulders adjusted to small on a medium pattern.

I made two shirts, both cotton, one baby blue and one in a pale green with stripes.  I wore the blue shirt and Joe also wore a made by me shirt to dinner.
Blue shirt

Green shirt

Joe in Simplicity 7330

I used my Singer 404 for the green shirt.

I used my Singer 6268 for the blue one.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, July 21, 2017

Sage Shacket

When I was at Walmart I found cotton twill material for $1 a yard that I thought would make perfect muslins.  However, I quickly decided this sage green material would make a nice shacket.

Last time I made KwikSew 3251 I thought it fit perfect, except for the shoulders were too large.  In my last blog, I adjusted the pattern for this project.  

The sleeves seemed wrinkly to me, so I adjusted and readjusted, but decided I was over thinking it, and went ahead with the shacket.

I found two good articles on adjusting sleeves.  One is a Craftsy and the other is a Threads article.

I used my Singer 15-91 for all the sewing.  This machine is truly a gem.  The gear drive motor is smooth and strong.  It was given to me by my mom's friend.

I decided a matching top stitching thread would be perfect for this color.  I also decided to serge the seams.

I have enough sage twill for a few more projects.  Maybe a shirt, pants, or ....

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

KwikSew 3251 Redo

 I made KwikSew 3251 in size 36 and the shoulders are too big.  I noticed the ones made on have the same problem.  I am making another jacket with some adjustments.

My jacket

For this project, I am going to take one inch off the shoulders and armscyes by adjusting the pattern.  I am going to keep the two inches added to the length, but I am only going to add one inch to the arm length.

I followed the instructions in my Singer The Perfect Fit book to adjust the shoulders to a smaller size.

After this adjustment, I still had a gaping armhole.  So I took 3/4" off the shoulders seam as per my Singer book.

This made it fit much Better.  However, the sleeves were really wrinkly, so I adjusted the bottom of the armscyes to make them smaller.

I think I am done tweaking and ready to start cutting denim.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Back to the Eighties

I haven't seen denim jackets around for a while, possibly since the Eighties.  It is interesting how things come and go in style.

I found Kwik Sew 3251 on .  The interesting thing with this pattern is it looks just like a Levi's jacket Joe has.  This made my jacket easier to assemble because I had a model.   I am sewing a small size of this pattern with two inches added to the length and the arms.

I was inspired to do this jacket after watching Janet Pray make a women's denim jacket in this Craftsy class.  She shows step-by-step how to make her jacket pattern.  She shows lots of tips and does teach how to sew faster and better.  I did flat fell some seams, even though she serges all.

I used my DressMaster machine to sew this and do the topstitching.  The American made White machines with friction drive do incredible straight stitches.  Plus they will sew through anything, even several layers of denim.

I used 5/8" metal embossed nickel buttons for use on jeans purchased from  I installed them by squeezing together the two pieces with pliers, instead of hammering together.  I attached my "White" buttonholer to my DressMaster.

I was warned by a reader about the sizing.  Yes, it is big in the shoulders, so  I might make it again after adjusting the shoulders.   Since the denim was $1.50 per yard on closeout at Walmart, I made this jacket inexpensively.

I enjoyed the topstitching so much I am planning on making another jacket with the same pattern, but with beige denim, adjusted shoulders, and only 1" added to the sleeves. 

I also plan on using my new Necchi Supernova Ultra BF that followed me home for $4.50.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Ready for Winter

After making my lined shacket I decided a new coat would be nice to have.  I made a coat a few years ago and wear it often.  However, I feel it is time for another.  This time with  a gray wool blend and a navy lining.

 I purchased Kwik Sew 3123 on . I downloaded and printed out the pattern, then put it together like a puzzle.  I checked out this pattern on and found most people said the sizing ran large.  I chose medium anyway.

The first muslin turned out huge, with lots of shoulder and arm room.  So I decided to cut the pattern's armscyes to small, but keep everything else medium.  This made a better fit.  But still too big, so I decided to make the pattern in small, with one inch added to the arm length.

The instructions are thorough and clear.  The only thing I did different from the instructions was to make the collar from the outer material instead of the lining.

My Singer Diana in a desk did a great job sewing this project.  This 1975 electronic machine is smooth and quiet.
I tried different machines for the topstitching, but used Diana anyway.   She did great with the thick thread and a 14 needle.

The buttons are an inch wide so I made 1 1/8" buttonholes​ with my Singer CE100.  Diana has a two-step manual buttonhole and I wasn't sure I would get them all the same.

Welt pocket

This is a comfortable coat.  It is definitely oversized and boxy.  I like it and have worn it several times.

I found a Kwik Sew pattern for a denim jacket which I think will be a great project.

Thanks for stopping.