Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Burda 128 Jacket Debut

Burda 128 has been hanging in my sewing room for a whole month just waiting for its debut.  I finally decided to show it so I can call it finished and get on to a different project  I am not completely satisfied with it, but feel I am getting closer to something I would wear in public.

It was sewed with my Kenmore "95".  I really enjoyed sewing with this straight-stitch machine.  The buttonhole attachment did not have the correct size buttonhole, so I sewed them with my Brother SE270D .

Kenmore 117.959

Brother SE270D

I started with this Burda pattern because it was unlined and I thought it would be great for my trip to Mexico a few months ago.  It didn't make the trip.  This is my second try at this pattern.  I think with different interfacings, the third one would definitely be very good.  But I am burned out on this, and decided to try a different pattern for my next project.

Now that I know more about interfacings, shoulder pads, sleeve heads, mitered sleeves, and so many other things that it takes to make a jacket, I am glad I worked on this project.

My next jacket is going to be quite different from this style.

It should be interesting!

Thanks for stopping.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Burda 128 Jacket, Part Two

The Burda 128 jacket is coming along.  It is hard to believe it has been almost a month since my last blog.  Time flys when you are having fun!

I only have to finish the sleeve linings, sew the buttonholes, and other finishing touches.

The flaps and bags of the pockets are red.  I decided to make the front facings red to match.  Only problem was I did not like the red color for the lapels.  I decided to rip out the facings and make a two-tone facing.   The red would not show on the lapels this way.

This jacket has some firsts for me.  I made mitered corners on the cuff vents and also sewed faux buttonholes.  I also inserted shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Joe and I stayed a few days with my parents this week.  We live 25 minutes away, but we stay over often.  Anyway, I took the jacket to do some hand sewing and used my Mom's iron.

Now I am shopping for a new iron for myself.  I thought my inexpensive iron was doing a good job.  What a joke!
Gravity feed steam iron.  Yea or nay?

Hopefully the jacket will be ready for a photo shoot soon.
Work in progress

Thanks for stopping.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Burda 128 Redo, Part One

My first try at Burda Jacket 128 would have been better if I had more education in sewing.  I think it was a good start, but after learning some new skills the redo will be much better.

The videos I mentioned in my previous blog definitely have me feeling more confident.  The original jacket pattern has two side vents and patch pockets.  After watching and learning, I sewed welt pockets and a single vent.

I am using a cotton flannel material from Joann I was going to make a shirt-jacket with.  It is working great for this jacket.  It is easier to iron and is holding shape much better than the polyester material I used for the prior jacket.

My first welt pocket with a flap looks pretty good.

I feel better about this chest pocket compared to the first jacket.  I watched this video for instruction instead of using the Burda instructions.
Last time I fought with it forever.  But this time it went fast and easy.

 Handmade By Carolyn showed a flat fell side seam with vent for a shirt, but I used the method for the rear seam and vent.
Vent open

Vent closed

The inside with fusible interfacing and pockets installed.

This is what it looks like now.

I am sewing this with my Kenmore 117.959.  It is doing a wonderful job.

I am hopeful this jacket will be better than the first.  Especially since I am  following Male Devon Sewing Blazer of 2016 Challenge.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, January 29, 2016

Educating Myself

In my last blog I unveiled my first try with the Burda 128 jacket. I intended to wear this jacket during my cruise to Mexico.  Well,  I decided it wasn't quite worthy of this.  Instead I wore a suit I had purchased many years ago.

Formal night aboard Grand Princess
Shopping for fabric in Mexico with made by me bag and shirt

After returning from the cruise and looking at my previous blog, I am sure I made the right decision.  This jacket is not quite ready for public wearing.

Educating myself in order to produce a better jacket has included watching videos and reading my sewing books.

The first video "Create a jacket muslin" is helping me learn how to correct some fitting issues.   The second class "Modern jacket techniques" is teaching me many things.  One thing is a step-by-step tutorial on making a welt pocket.  I purchased both these courses on sale.

A free series I have been watching Expert sewing techniques has been very educational.  I am going to try setting in the sleeve like Sarah Veblen does.

I have already decided to change a few things when I start making Burda 128 again.  Such as a single, instead of a double vent in back.  Also I have decided to try welt pockets with flaps, instead of patch pockets.

Back to video watching.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, January 8, 2016

Burda 128 Jacket Thoughts

I finished the Burda 128 Jacket.  I like the pattern and the fit.  The video instructions helped me out quite a bit.

This pattern was printed out on my printer and assembled. There weren't any adjustment lines, so I used my "Singer, The Perfect Fit" book to show me where to adjust the pattern for the two inches in sleeve and body length I needed.

This  jacket is unlined except for the sleeves.  I used a lightweight suiting fabric I bought at JoAnn with a 60% off coupon, so the cost of the fabric was $15.  I used my Viking 960 to sew the jacket and my Singer 7470 to sew the keyhole buttonholes.

There are some wrinkles on the arms and around the shoulders I don't like.  Otherwise it is wearable.

I am going to make this jacket again.  I  will make a muslin using the instructions from a video on making a jacket muslin to make some adjustments.  The video is for a women's jacket, but I can use the techniques.  I purchased this video on sale for $15.

My thoughts on this jacket are positive.  After a little more video watching I believe I can make a nice jacket.  I like learning new skills and working with different fabrics.

Thanks for stopping.

Monday, December 21, 2015

Burda 128 Jacket Update

I have been working on my Burda 128 Jacket hoping to have it ready for my cruise next month.  I have a glimmer of hope I will make it.

I like this pattern so far.  The number of pieces, the way it is assembled, and the way it is fitting.  By the way, I usually wear a 36 and this is a 38, so I think the sizing runs snug.  Or maybe I am just out of fashion.  I noticed when shopping for jackets with Joe last month most are slim or skinny fit.

The instructions need a lot of help.  There are not any drawings.  An advanced sewist could probably handle this.  The video is good, but the assembly instructions differ totally from the video. Therefore, follow one or the other.

The video actually has the vents being assembled backwards to convention.  I noticed, but did them the way showed.  I added binding to the vents since the video serged them.

The welt pocket video instructions weren't the greatest, but I did get it done.  I forgot I had some good instructions in my stack of sewing books.  I did remember I had good instructions for the lined-pockets.

The video also did not interface the chest piece and lapel because the sewest wanted a less formal look.   I added fusible interfacing.

Here I have the left side finished.  The right side just needs finishing sewed up.  Also the pockets need sewed on.

Left side finished

Inside left view. Notice how the facing goes to the side seam
and is neatly finished.

Close-up of welt pocket

Vent detail.  This jacket has dual vents.

Interior and exterior of lined pockets

Sewing being handled by my Viking 960

I need to finish the arms and arm linings and some other sewing to finish.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, December 4, 2015

Travel Attire

Joe and I haven't traveled in over ten years until we went to Alaska in October.  Now we are going on a Princess Cruise to Mexico in January.  Wow!  Talk about change!

During the Cruise to Mexico we want to dress for the two formal nights.  I enjoy dressing up, so I first thought a tuxedo.  But that might be over the top.  So I am going to take a gray suit.  Joe also has a gray suit.

Even though I have something to wear,   I have the urge to make an unlined jacket to wear during the cruise.  I might not finish it in time, but that is fine.

I made Vogue 8719 last year.  For me, the instructions were vague and the fit was a little tight.

Vogue 8719

I am making  Burda 128.  I chose this because even though the insructions don't have any pictures, there is a video available.

Burda 128 from website

Burda 128 from website

This pattern was printed out on my printer, then assembled.

Pattern assembly line.

Pattern Assembled

This pattern does not have seam-allowances included.   I added 1" so room for adjustment would be available.   Once cut-out,  I made a muslin to check the size.   Except for needing to add two inches to the body length and the sleeves, it fits fine.

I  am going to adjust the pattern length and start making the jacket with some polyester suiting I purchased from JoAnn's.

 Gray fabric

I'll update you as I proceed.

Thanks for stopping.