Saturday, August 29, 2015

Skinny Pants Redo, Part One

My skinny khaki pants I reviewed in my last blog are wearable, but not quite to my liking.  I decided to try to tweak the pattern a little to make a more comfortable pair of pants.  Since I haven't really tweaked pants before, except for lengthening, this has been a learning experience.



Simplicity 1286 will have a longer rise, looser hips and backside, and a real double-welt rear pocket.  I am using Singer, Sewing Pants That Fit to help me with the tweaking.  This book is written for women's pants, but I am using the techniques for my pants.

The book guides you through all the adjustments for tight seat, loose seat, big stomach, small stomach, and all other conceivable fitting problems.

The main thing I took from this book is after making adjustments to the pattern, you baste together a pair of pants using a 1" seam allowance.  Then without the waistband, model the pants and start adjusting where needed.  Once you get the pants to your liking mark all adjustments on the pattern so you can remake the pants again.

Since I knew the waist was right on this pattern, I made a size 38 pants with a size 36 waist.  This made the legs a little wider and more room in the hips.

After some adjustments here is what I ended with.

Front looks good.

A little more final adjustments needed on rear.

Then I tore them apart to make the pattern for use next time.  Once torn apart I made the rear double welt pocket with help from Duane at The Japanese Pattern Challenge and a youtube video.

With sewing marks.

Ready to go.


Now I am going to assemble the front pockets and the fly.

Thanks for stopping.

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Skinny Khaki Pants



I decided to make Simplicity 1286 with some twill material I bought from Fabric.com.  Also, I decided to move straight on to the final product without making a muslin.  I did this because none of the reviews online mentioned sizing issues.  I did add four inches to the length.  This is normal for me.

Simplicity 1286

I have been almost following the directions.  I finished the pockets with french seams, used flat-fell seams on the inside leg, and finished the fly to my liking.

I tried them on without the waistband to see if the size needed tweaking.  They fit, but more like a skinny-pant than a relaxed fit.  I continued to finish them.

The finished project could use some tweaks, but they are comfortable.  Just more like a skinny pair of pants.  I know this is the style, but my measureents are 35x29x37 and  6'2".   I don't think I need to look any skinnier.

I will say, there is no vanity sizing with these pants.  A 29 waist is a 29 waist.  I have made pants where the 29 is more like a 32.  This is usually confirmed by reviewers on patternreview.com

A little quirk to this pattern is a faux back pocket.  A flap is there, but no pocket.  I would have tried a welt pocket, but there is a dart, so I am not sure.  Duane from The Japanese Pattern Challenge sent me some wonderful directions for welt pockets I will have to try on my next pair of pants.  Thanks Duane!

So, the jury is still out if I will try to remake these and add some material to the backside and the legs, plus a real back pocket, or move on to another pattern.  I am not comfortable with tweaking patterns too much.

A few pictures:
I like the front pockets

Comfortable. But a little more room needed!

Faux back pocket

Inside view
While writing this I ordered a book on pants fitting.  So I might tweak these yet.

Thanks for stopping.


Saturday, July 18, 2015

Summer Mystery Project Update

It is hard to believe it is already week six of an eight week project.  Where is Summer going?

San Francisco Stitch Co. has been doing a great job supplying these weekly embroidery designs. They have been stitching out extremely nice.

I have been using my Simplicity SE3 with the regular and the extended hoops to embroider the designs.  This has been my first time using Sew What Pro software to make the larger designs.  This is accomplished by splitting a large design into two separate ones.  With the multi-position hoop,  the machine does one part, then I put the hoop on position two and embroider the second part.  It all comes out perfect.

The software does have a learning curve, but it is so much cheaper than any other I have seen.

Here are weeks one through six:








Looking good so far.  I wonder where we are going next?

Thanks for stopping.

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Elastic Dress Pants?

I finished my McCall's 8971 pants rather quickly due to the fact they have an elastic waistband and simple front pockets.  The rear pocket is a welt type with a flap.  I liked this for the practice.  I haven't made many of these.

I might make this pattern again with fleece for lounge pants.  But I am not sure I would make pants to wear in public with this pattern.  Don't get me wrong.  They are comfortable and feel good. In fact, in this 100 degree heat, I wore them to the store and was cool and comfortable.   However, a zipper and a button along with some belt loops makes a pair of slacks in my mind.

The shirt is tucked in to show the detail.  Otherwise, I wear the shirt untucked.





Rear pocket
Rear pocket flap




So, no elastic dress pants for me.  Time for another project.

Thanks for stopping.




Sunday, June 21, 2015

Zero to Sixty!

Wow!  It is hard to believe it has been over a month since I sewed anything.  And unlike other bloggers who are busy doing other things, I don't have that excuse.  I could hardly get motivated to get out of bed since early May.  But now,  I think I am "Zero to Sixty"!

I say this, because I started the San Francisco Stitch Co.  Summer Mystery Stitch Project.   If you were reading my blog last year, you might remember this is an eight week long embroidery machine project in which you don't know what the end result will be.  It is already week two and I did week one and two yesterday.


The theme is Road Trip.  Being one square is a car and one is a clipper ship, I think it will be a coast to coast trip.   My Simplicity embroidery machine is handling this task.  This should be a fun and interesting project.

I also started a pair of pants yesterday.   I have had this pattern for a while, but I have been waiting for the right material to come along.  I ordered two kinds of material from Fabric.com,  A twill and a linen.  When they arrived, I decided they were much too nice for the simple pair of elastic-waist pants I want to make.  So,  I dove into my stash for some lightweight-polyester I purchased at the thrift store a while ago.


I am using  McCall's GAP pattern  #8971 from 1984.  I want some simple lightweight pants to wear a few places this Summer and I think these will fit the requirement.

Two projects going full speed at once.  Now you see why "Zero to Sixty".

Thanks for stopping.

Sunday, May 10, 2015

Summer is here!

Summer is here in California.  It has been in the 80s all week.  But then my photoshoot was delayed because we got two days of rain.  That was great since we are in a terrible drought.  Now it is shorts weather again,  so I'll be wearing my designer shorts.

The Simplicity 1948 pattern fits me great.  I will have to make some pants with this pattern since I like the shorts I have made with it.  I think the slanted front pockets are a nice touch.

This has been a good test for my Singer 7470.  It handled the heavy duty denim easily.  I also used my Singer 6268 to embroider the pocket.  Part of the sewing fun for me is using different machines.  I like the different stitches, the controls, the different sounds, and the hunt for that orphan machine calling my name.

I wanted the designer look of the 70s and 80s.  I think I achieved it.





I took my time with these shorts, especially the top stitching.  I think they turned out nice.

Since I had a little denim material left, I decided my friend Jaime could use a new pair of jeans.

Ready to cut

Ready to sew

Velcro closures

All finished, except for turning right-side out

Jaime is thrilled, but needs a new top

Summer top finished
 I found the patterns for Jaime's jeans here,  And her top here.

I did her outfit with my hand-cranked Bel Air since I wanted real control over the tiny stitches.  This worked out quite well.



Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Summer is getting closer.

The Simplicity 1948 shorts are getting closer to being ready.  I have been doing a lot of topstitching.  My singer 7470 hasn't let me down.  I am surprised at how well it has been handling several layers of denim.  I thought for sure I would have to use one of my vintage machines.

I did use a vintage machine to embellish a back pocket.  I tried my Simplicity and my Brother embroidery machines, but I liked the style of letters poduced by my Singer 6268. This machine was made in the 80s.  I thought it definitely evokes the 80s designer jeans look I wanted.
Jordache 1980s

Calvin Klein 1980s


Singer 6268 with embroidery attachment

Embroidery unit in action

TMS = ThinManSewing designer shorts

Zipper fly
Time to finish the waistband and belt loops.

Thanks for stopping.