Friday, December 8, 2017

Mimi G Style by Simplicity

It is rare to find a new menswear pattern that doesn't involve pajamas.  When Joann's had $1 Simplicity patterns, I bought Simplicity 8427.  This is a dress shirt pattern by Mimi G Style.

This is a fitted shirt. It comes with two collar styles(club and pointed) and two cuff variations(barrel and french).  I made a pointed collar and barrel cuffs.  The only adjustment I did to the size 38 pattern was add two inches to the sleeves.  This is definitely a slim fit, because I normally where a size 36. I used turquoise flannel for it.

I watched the Mimi G Sew along for this shirt on Youtube to refresh some shirt sewing techniques in my mind.

I used my Bernina 1001 to sew this shirt.  I also used it for  the buttonholes since it sews both sides in the same direction, not one forward and one reverse.  In other words, it has a six step manual buttonhole.  It makes nice, balanced buttonholes.

I like this shirt, I know it is a business shirt and should look great in a plain cotton also.

Thanks for stopping.

Thursday, November 2, 2017


I need to stay off eBay and shopgoodwill.  I purchased not one, not two, but three vintage Berninas last week, with two arriving the same day.  Since I bought one a few weeks ago, this makes four in a month.  I guess it is true that "everything comes in bunches".

I bought the 1011 a few weeks ago.  It is a wonderful machine that purrs.  I made my KwikSew jeans with it.  I bought one of these a few years ago, but it was packed horribly and arrived smashed.  With eBay's help, I received a full refund.

The 1011 has a beautiful stitch and is quiet.

The second is a 1001 I bought on shopgoodwill.   I took a chance because it was advertised as "not tested".  But since it is a Bernina, I knew it would operate fine.  It didn't come with a bobbin case, but I obtained one through Amazon.


The 1001 has a rotary hook.  It is really quiet and makes a beautiful stitch.

The third, but the one I was most anxious about is a Bernia 1120, a computerized machine.  It was advertised on eBay as parts or repair, but the seller did say it powered on and the needle went up and down.  I decided to take a chance for the price. Especially since the extension table and the case were included.


What a honey!  The 1120 is so smooth and quiet with a beautiful stitch.

The fourth is one I have wanted for along time.  It is a 910.  Just like the famous 930, but with a blue face plate and fewer decorative stitches.  It was also on eBay as parts or repair.

Smooth doesn't even start to describe this machine. It also has needle up/down by tapping the foot pedal.

I also have several other vintage Berninas.

Ugh!   I think my SMAD(Sewing Machine Acquisition Disorder) has just turned to BAD(Bernina Acquisition Disorder).

Hopefully my BAD will be in remission for a while now.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, October 13, 2017

Keeping busy with KwikSew 3504

I decided to make a pair of jeans using KwikSew 3504 .  But first, I made a pair of shorts using the sage-green twill I had in my stash for a wearable muslin.   I made size medium and the shorts were loose, but after washing and wearing several times, they fit fine.  So, medium with 4" added to the straight leg is what I made.

I gave my Singer 338 to the Hospice thrift store after making the shorts with it.  I rarely used this machine, so I hope someone will.

I used my Bernina 1011 to make the jeans, including the topstitching.

I used the embroidery attachment with my Singer 6268 and cartridge 8 to make the little design on the pockets.  

I used my Brother 523 to overlock the edges of the leg seams.

The instructions for this pattern are thorough and very good.  The installation of the zipper is different then I have done before, and is quite good.  The only thing I did different is put interfacing in the waist band because I used lightweight denim.

Here is a front view showing the rivets.

Here is the back view showing the embroidery.

Here is an inside view showing the pockets and zipper.

And now, the photo shoot.  The hems are basted until I wash them a few times to see how much shrinkage will happen.

Now after being washed twice here is the result.  The hems still basted until one more wash.

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Old Friends

I have written many times about my "go-to" shirt pattern being Simplicity 7330.  This pattern has a choice of a notched collar or a collar with stand.  It is like an old friend that I am comfortable with and like having around.

I have written in length about my sewing machines also.   I like all machines, but I have found among the smoothest I have are the ones called Bernina.  I have tried the new Berninas at the store, but my newest is a 1011 which is 30 years old.

So for my latest projects, I had some comfortable old friends help me.  My Simplicity 7330 and my Bernina 1011.

I made the medium size with a blue cotton from JoAnn's.  I like a firm collar, so I interfaced both collar pieces.

Then I decided to have another old friend, my Singer 6268, help me to make a shirt with a sheet.  One thing I did different this time is use the straight stitch needle plate with the straight stitch foot.   This made a real difference in keeping the topstitching straight.

Simplicity 7330 was used, but I inserted darts in the back like Islander #228.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, August 18, 2017

Birthday Shirts

To celebrate some birthdays, my niece and nephew took us to Morton's steakhouse.

Both a happy and a sad occasion.   The last time we went to Morton's was in 2012.  This time the attendees were  the same, minus my father who passed away in January.
Dressed up for dinner in 2012
Dinner 2017.  Me, mom, Melissa, Chase, Joe, and Joe

For the occasion, I decided to make a dress shirt to wear.  Since we have been having 100 degree days, a short sleeve was needed.
I used the Islander 228 shirt pattern I used before,  with the shoulders adjusted to small on a medium pattern.

I made two shirts, both cotton, one baby blue and one in a pale green with stripes.  I wore the blue shirt and Joe also wore a made by me shirt to dinner.
Blue shirt

Green shirt

Joe in Simplicity 7330

I used my Singer 404 for the green shirt.

I used my Singer 6268 for the blue one.

Thanks for stopping.

Friday, July 21, 2017

Sage Shacket

When I was at Walmart I found cotton twill material for $1 a yard that I thought would make perfect muslins.  However, I quickly decided this sage green material would make a nice shacket.

Last time I made KwikSew 3251 I thought it fit perfect, except for the shoulders were too large.  In my last blog, I adjusted the pattern for this project.  

The sleeves seemed wrinkly to me, so I adjusted and readjusted, but decided I was over thinking it, and went ahead with the shacket.

I found two good articles on adjusting sleeves.  One is a Craftsy and the other is a Threads article.

I used my Singer 15-91 for all the sewing.  This machine is truly a gem.  The gear drive motor is smooth and strong.  It was given to me by my mom's friend.

I decided a matching top stitching thread would be perfect for this color.  I also decided to serge the seams.

I have enough sage twill for a few more projects.  Maybe a shirt, pants, or ....

Thanks for stopping.

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

KwikSew 3251 Redo

 I made KwikSew 3251 in size 36 and the shoulders are too big.  I noticed the ones made on have the same problem.  I am making another jacket with some adjustments.

My jacket

For this project, I am going to take one inch off the shoulders and armscyes by adjusting the pattern.  I am going to keep the two inches added to the length, but I am only going to add one inch to the arm length.

I followed the instructions in my Singer The Perfect Fit book to adjust the shoulders to a smaller size.

After this adjustment, I still had a gaping armhole.  So I took 3/4" off the shoulders seam as per my Singer book.

This made it fit much Better.  However, the sleeves were really wrinkly, so I adjusted the bottom of the armscyes to make them smaller.

I think I am done tweaking and ready to start cutting denim.

Thanks for stopping.