Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Sewing another Jacket

I was going to make the Butterick 6022 again with some changes.  Like princess seams and sleeve vents.   After drafting some changes and getting ready to make a muslin, I found Simplicity 3708 online.

This is the jacket pattern I have been looking for.  It is unlined, has princess seams, and sleeve vents.  It is more like a coat than a jacket.

I bypassed it once, thinking it was a hooded jacket.  But on second look, I saw both models were wearing hooded sweatshirts underneath.  Quite strange when one would think the detail of the collar and lapel should be shown.

I like that it says "Easy to Sew".

After measuring the shoulders, I decided size medium would work for me. However, I made a muslin and it was baggy around the arm holes and other areas.  Just like the model!

All pattern markings on muslin helps fitting.

I tried adjusting it, but trashed it and made a size small muslin with medium shoulder width. 

A major fitting point with jackets is the shoulder and armhole area.  The seam of the armscye should mimic the attachment of your arm to your body.  The bottom of the sleeve should sit as tight to your armpit as possible, without restricting movement.  If great attention is not given to this area, large wrinkles will appear. 

As seen in the first muslin, the armhole was too big for me.  I added an inch of fabric under the arm for a better fit.  I also adjusted it as shown.

   I  lengthened the body one inch and the arms two inches.

Here is the muslin with my adjustments.  It is a three button jacket which I have pinned shut and shoved in shoulder pads.  

I think I made a good decision trying this pattern and not redesigning the other.  I'll call it a learning experience either way.

Now to decide what fabric to use.

Thanks for stopping.


  1. I love that you're trying this on over a shirt you'd wear with it. Looking forward to the results

  2. Designer Angela Wolf said to wear what you would wear when trying it on to know if it really fits. Good tip!

  3. Hello, looking at your second photo, do you think it is a little bit tight on your left shoulder? Hope you find some great fabric, looking forward to seeing it.

  4. Wil, I checked out this pattern on PR. I see it has a version with contrasting front and back yokes. That could be an interesting look.

    1. This pattern also has elbow patches. One pattern for all styles!

  5. Your adjustments look great. I think it will look great! At first look of the pattern, I thought it was hooded as well - tricky photography haha.