Thursday, July 30, 2015

Skinny Khaki Pants



I decided to make Simplicity 1286 with some twill material I bought from Fabric.com.  Also, I decided to move straight on to the final product without making a muslin.  I did this because none of the reviews online mentioned sizing issues.  I did add four inches to the length.  This is normal for me.

Simplicity 1286

I have been almost following the directions.  I finished the pockets with french seams, used flat-fell seams on the inside leg, and finished the fly to my liking.

I tried them on without the waistband to see if the size needed tweaking.  They fit, but more like a skinny-pant than a relaxed fit.  I continued to finish them.

The finished project could use some tweaks, but they are comfortable.  Just more like a skinny pair of pants.  I know this is the style, but my measureents are 35x29x37 and  6'2".   I don't think I need to look any skinnier.

I will say, there is no vanity sizing with these pants.  A 29 waist is a 29 waist.  I have made pants where the 29 is more like a 32.  This is usually confirmed by reviewers on patternreview.com

A little quirk to this pattern is a faux back pocket.  A flap is there, but no pocket.  I would have tried a welt pocket, but there is a dart, so I am not sure.  Duane from The Japanese Pattern Challenge sent me some wonderful directions for welt pockets I will have to try on my next pair of pants.  Thanks Duane!

So, the jury is still out if I will try to remake these and add some material to the backside and the legs, plus a real back pocket, or move on to another pattern.  I am not comfortable with tweaking patterns too much.

A few pictures:
I like the front pockets

Comfortable. But a little more room needed!

Faux back pocket

Inside view
While writing this I ordered a book on pants fitting.  So I might tweak these yet.

Thanks for stopping.


16 comments:

  1. Nice work on the pants. I like the faux back pocket since I don't use a back pocket. However, if you want to use it, make it real.

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  2. Those look great. I'm not sure you even need a faux pocket. They fit really well in back!

    I've been favoring a slightly to definitely flared leg over straight legs, lately. I'm also 6'2".

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  3. If you're going to add more width to the pants and you're uncomfortable just adding inches, copy the pattern onto newspaper or butcher paper or something (transfer all of your markings!), and slice up the grain line. This should be straight up the leg. Then, tape ONE of the pieces you've cut onto another sheet of butcher paper (or a long sliver of it, it doesn't need to completely double), use your ruler to mark a parallel line 1/2", 1", etc. from your cut line, and tape the cut edge of your other piece along that line. Redraw your dart, since it now has extra width to get rid of! Cut the pattern piece out, and you have a new piece!

    Anytime I've edited a pattern piece, I write on the pattern what I did. (Added more seam allowance, drew a dart longer, added length, etc.) Also, this is the time to double check that you have all of your markings. Do you have your seam allowance listed? Do you have finished measurements listed? All of your notches line up? Grain line? The name of the piece? (E.g., back vs front) I also always say "Pants Back Piece 1/2" so that way I know it's pants, this is the back, and I need one other piece to have a complete pattern.

    You can NEVER have too many labels, but it is far too easy to have too few. Make your life easy and mark everything!

    And your skinny pants look great -- maybe make a review on pattern review?

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    1. If my directions don't make sense, I can do a blog post and take pics.

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    2. Makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to explain how to fo it.

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    3. I'm certainly no expert, but wouldn't it be easier to just use the pattern for 30 or 32 inches instead of 29, and then take in the waist? In any case, being nearly butt-less and fighting with pants that want to slide down to the floor without help, I am totally envious of needing to allow for more space in the seat!

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  4. The pants you made look way, way better on you than they do on the model featured on the pattern envelope. I'm so envious that pant patterns fit you so well with a minimum of tweaks!


    I encourage you to give Duane's welt pockets a try- they'll give you a great round of satisfaction when they turn out!

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    1. Believe me when I say I have had my share of patterns both shirt and pants that don't come close to looking good. Since I am not familiar with too many tweaks, I simply go on to another pattern.. If I had the patience like you, I might redraft!

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  5. Skinny pants look good on your frame. You need to check the belt loop locations. The fronts should be centered on the front opening, the sides 1" from the side seam towards the back, and the two back ones should be centered on the back seam. Everything else looks pretty good.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for seeing the loops being off. I will use your method next time.

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  6. If you want to make pants that are factory finished or better, you need to learn to make clean finished welt pockets. Coffin's trouser making book has directions, or you can take apart an old pair of pants. Most contemporary men's patterns won't include welt pockets, too complicated, but vintage Vogue patterns had directions for those pockets.

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  7. I have that very same pattern and it's good to see it made up. Boy, I didn't know the pants legs were that narrow! I'll probably do a muslin just to be sure I'm comfortable with the fit. The style suits you and I can see the time and extra effort you put into them. You're on a roll......don't stop now! Welt pockets are intimidating but practice will make you and expert in no time!

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  8. If you can, what was the name and author of the pants fitting book you got?

    JohnThomas in NC

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    1. Singer, Sewing pants that fit. 1989
      It has loads of information and color pictures. It is all women's pants. However, I think I can use the ideas. I bought it on Amazon in hardcover for .01 plus $3.99 shipping. Great book for $4.00.

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  9. Wil, I also think you're on a roll here. I would call this a completely "tweak worthy" pattern. One thing that has always surprised me is how a very small adjustment, we're talking 1/8 to 1/4 inch, can make a huge improvement. I'd continue to refine this pattern. Looking at your pics I think the back darts look a little too long. They should be no more than 3.5 inches. Don't fear the dart! The tip of the dart will mark the placement line of the welt pocket. Keep plugging away at it! Pretty soon you're gonna have the perfect pair of pants. :).

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  10. Hi there,

    I know this doesn't have anything to do with THIS, but I don't know how to reach you to ask my question.

    I found your videos on YouTube for my Singer 6268 but, I couldn't find one that went into MORE detail on oiling it.

    I did do the light compartment area, but isn't there more INSIDE the case to maintenance? I can't even figure out how to get it open.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you SO much

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